Ahead, rising like a serrated crown from the sea, stands Vestrahorn — Iceland’s most cinematic mountain.
Its jagged peaks slice into the moody sky, the rock shifting from obsidian to gunmetal gray as clouds churn overhead. In the early morning, they are often pink shading to orange, capturing the best of the sky here.
At its feet lies a stretch of black sand so stark, so primal, that it feels like stepping into another world — a place where Earth’s raw power is laid bare. There are dunes with hardy beach grass that contrast spectacularly with the black sand.
And, if you are very lucky — and I was on this most recent trip — you can find whale bones on the beach.
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Whale Bones at Stokksnes |
Underfoot, the sand is soft but heavy, absorbing light like velvet. When the tide pulls back, the wet surface mirrors the mountains perfectly, turning Vestrahorn upside down in a glassy reflection that seems too symmetrical to be real.
It’s one of the most photographed scenes in the country, yet no image can fully capture the living drama of standing there, feeling the wind claw at your jacket as the surf crashes in slow, thunderous bursts.
Vestrahorn itself rises about 454 meters above sea level, its dark ridges composed primarily of gabbro and granophyre — intrusive igneous rocks formed deep within the Earth’s crust.
Over millions of years, glacial erosion carved its sharp ridgelines and spires, leaving behind the distinct horn-like shapes that give the mountain its name.
To the east, a smaller but equally brooding peak called Brunnhorn is sometimes referred to as “Batman Mountain,” thanks to its twin pointed ridges that resemble the caped silhouette of Gotham’s hero. Together, these peaks form a dramatic amphitheatre for the ocean’s endless performance.
But it’s not just geology that makes this place magnetic — it’s the atmosphere. On some days, the air is so still that the beach becomes a mirror, every dune and ripple duplicated in the wet sand. On others, storms roll in from the Atlantic, shrouding the mountains in fog and turning the world monochrome.
The mood shifts by the hour, so you'll want to linger for days, waiting for the moment when the light breaks through — when the low Arctic sun glows amber across the dunes and the peaks ignite with colour.
The moody rust view you see here of the Viking Village was taken at first light. You can see how dense the mist is before it burns off, creating a Zen, off world feel.In summer, the long daylight hours cast a golden halo that lingers late into the night. The coastal grasses, which grow in tufts among the black dunes, turn bright green and dance in the wind, creating waves of colour that contrast beautifully with the darkness of the sand.
In winter, Vestrahorn becomes a place of deep stillness and magic.
Snow drapes the mountain’s ridges while the beach remains bare, creating a striking juxtaposition of white and black. When the Northern Lights shimmer across the sky, the entire landscape becomes electric — the aurora’s green ribbons reflecting off the wet sand in surreal, shifting patterns.
The Stokksnes Peninsula, where this scene unfolds, lies near the town of Höfn in southeastern Iceland. It’s part of a headland that juts into the sea, guarded by a narrow causeway and a small radar station that dates back to the Cold War.
Visitors pay a small entrance fee to cross the private land and walk the beach — a ticket that also gives access to the nearby Viking Café, a cozy stop at the foot of the mountain. The café serves steaming coffee, hot chocolate, waffles, and homemade soups, perfect for warming up after braving the coastal winds.Beside it lies a fascinating replica Viking village — originally built as a film set — with turf-roofed wooden houses, carved beams, and an authentic Old Norse atmosphere that feels like stepping back a thousand years.
For travelers wishing to linger, camping is permitted on site near the Viking Café, making it one of the most unique wild-like camping experiences in Iceland. The small campground overlooks the dunes and offers basic facilities — showers, restrooms, and access to the café during opening hours.
Waking up here is unforgettable: imagine unzipping your tent to see Vestrahorn glowing in the dawn light, the first rays of sun painting the peaks while seabirds wheel overhead and the tide whispers across the black sand. In the evening, you can sit by your tent or campervan watching the last light fade behind the mountains, with nothing but the sound of the wind and waves for company.
The isolation adds to the mystique — there are no crowds here, only the rhythm of the sea, the cries of Arctic terns, and the occasional fox padding across the dunes. Vestrahorn is a place to feel small, to stand between sea and sky and sense the ancient heartbeat of the Earth. The combination of volcanic black sand, razor-edged peaks, and shifting Icelandic light makes it one of the most visually arresting landscapes on the planet.
As the sun dips low, painting the horizon in shades of copper and violet, the waves creep forward once more. Vestrahorn stands unshaken — a monument to time and fire, watching over the restless sea. And as darkness gathers on the black sands below, you realize that this is Iceland distilled: wild, raw, and achingly beautiful.
Know Before You Go
This site is one of my personal favs. You can camp here overnight. They have showers and cabins to rent. There is a cooking area in the parking lot with a microwave and hot plates.
The overnight fee includes the showers (no need to have change), washrooms open 24 hours and access to the beach sites for parking to walk to the Viking Village or take amazing photos at sunrise and sunset on the beach. Beach access is 24 hours but the best photos for light are the beginning and end of day.
Viking Village Cafe: Awesome service, friendly staff and the 2nd Best Coffee in Iceland at 900 Kr for a latte.
Of interest, the very BEST coffee in Iceland (hands down) is at Skool Beans Cafe in Vik at Klettsvegur, 870 Vík, Iceland. Check them out at skoolbeans.com or @skool_beans. They were the best part of several mornings on my trip. They have wonderful specialty coffees, hot chocolate variations and teas.
Eating at Höfn
I recommend two places in Höfn to enjoy a meal, Pakkhús Restaurant at Krosseyjarvegur 3, 780 Höfn í Hornafirði, Iceland and Kaffi Hornid at Hafnarbraut 42, 780 Höfn í Hornafirði, Iceland.
If you head to Kaffi Hornid, try their Monster Burger (with delicious mushrooms) or the steak sandwich. Both are hearty and very satisfying, especially after a day hiking in the wilds of Iceland.